Oct 10, 2021

TRENDS & TEXTILE INNOVATIONS SEASON Autumn/Winter 22/23

The process of making the fashion and textile industry as gentle and sustainable as possible for the environment continues, because this change is urgently needed.

While researching new fabric developments for A/W 22/23, I checked the international fabric fairs as PERFORMANCE DAYS and PREMIER VISION.

Furthermore I discovered striking trends of alternative resources that I find particularly worth to mention. So in this article you will learn more about these four topics here:

1. CLOSING THE LOOP – PERFORMANCE DAYS A/W 22/23

2. HIDDEN QUALITIES VERSUS FANTASY – SPORTS FABRICS A/W 22/23 PREMIER VISION PARIS

3. LAB GROWN TEXTILES  & NATURAL DYES

4. THE PERFORMANCE OF BACTERIA

 1. CLOSING THE LOOP: PERFORMANCE DAYS A/W 22/23 

The topic “Nothing to waste” of last PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich is the ideal way to save the environment. “Cradle-to-Cradle” is a specific term used to describe clothing in a cycle. The best compositions of fabrics are considered in advance in order to return it to the closed loop. Instead thinking afterwards how the material can be recycled at the end of its use.

So unneccessary recycling processes can be avoided. Mono-component fibres (consists only one substance, no blends) are coming up because they can be recycled easier and with less effort as no fibers need to be separated from each other.  Read the very interesting article about “Nothing to waste” here.

Take a look at some fabric highlights:

2. HIDDEN QUALITIES VERSUS FANTASY – SPORTS FABRICS A/W 22/23 PREMIER VISION PARIS

Trend OFFBEAT JACQUARDS  | Image: PREMIER VISION  I  FABRIC by SERATES

This is how Premier Vision describes the new trends:

“AW 22-23 Sport and Tech fabrics clearly point to a season to work with a complementary flair.
On one side, calm and elegant visuals are enhanced by hidden qualities and cutting-edge functions. Handles have strong personalities, triggering the senses. Strong and protective synthetics, cozy wools and comfortable knits suggest sheltering garments, where fabrics act as a bulwark or a cocoon of well-being. Eco-design is incorporated in proposals. Compositions are diversified to better respond to specific uses, and tend towards increased circularity. The entire production chain is increasingly taken into account, going beyond simple, overly generic indications.

On the other side, fantasy plays a starring role with high-impact graphics, exaggerated raised effects and bold shines. Sport embodies a flashier, deliberately joyful register, for enticingly singular clothing just oozing good humor. Know-hows are crossed and combined, even dipping into the world of couture silkies, to update and add a fashionable touch to the sporty offer – turning fashion into an everyday outdoor adventure. “

Perfectly shown by the trend:

OFFBEAT JACQUARDS

“Silky know-hows and patterns captivate the sport and outdoor universe.

Jacquards go in for the spectacular effect of pervasively rich decorations, or strive for something more discreet in matte/shiny damasks. Technical finishes, volumes and cuts lend a final touch to the offbeat effect. Meantime, figured and lamé ribbons, ornamental components and labels inject a touch of glamor to more low-key items.

In knits, body-mapping jacquards pre-trace the finished products. Function is engineered into the design, to sheath, elasticize and aerate exactly where needed.”

Learn more about the sports fabric trends A/W 22/23 at PREMIER VISION here.

3. LAB GROWN TEXTILES  & NATURAL DYE

T-Shirt dyed with cherry blossoms by PANGAIA  |  Image: Marili

Designers are exploring biotech and biowaste like algae or microorganisms to develop new materials and products. The development of sustainable textiles more and more starts in the lab.

And this means new ways for their functions as well. There are already lab grown fabrics out of living materials as algae extract in combination with silk cocoon proteine, which can grow in water in 24 hours.

4. THE PERFORMANCE OF BACTERIA

Image: Pawel Czerwinski

Until now, all the colors we love rely on fossil fuels and corrosive chemicals with a huge impact on the environnement and our health. Their pollution is highly problematic especially in the textile industry which is the second most polluting in the world.

Besides natural dyes with plant fibres there are interesting new developments to dye with microbes:

• micro organisms that typically create food and drinks via fermentation, break down into renewable plant-based materials and transform into beautiful batik patterns. 

• PILI is growing a new generation of renewable colors so we will soon be able to enjoy the magnificiency of colors without harming the planet.

• Natsai Audrey Chieza, designer and founder of Faber Futures, developed a natural dye with bacterium colonies

But for me the most mindblowing projects at the moment are experiments with bacteria. In collaboration with a microbiologist designer Rosie Broadhead developed SKIN II:

” A project that explores the benefits of encapsulating probiotic bacterias into the fibres of clothing. The bacterias are activitated when they come in contact with our sweat and dominante other, less beneficial bacteria.”

You can imagine that the bacterias are placed in zones where the sweat is, as we know it especially from functional underwear where garments and material are divided in parts with different functions. Maybe this will be the  bodymapping of tomorrow.  I believe there is a lot of potential in it.

See here how SKIN II looks like and how it works in clothes->

Do you know already the biodegradable PUMA collection with bacteria dyed fabrics? Learn more about it in my Activewear Trend Magazine A/W 22/23.

A big thank you to PERFORMANCE DAYS, PREMIER VISION AND PANGAIA for  sharing  their images.